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Woodturning Back to Basics

For this month’s Back to Basics project, I’m creating a seam ripper handle using a piece of Myrtlewood.

This project is a great basic project, so it’s a good idea to use it to brush up on your technique. And before you touch the lathe, it’s a very good idea to make sure your tools are sharp.

For my own sharpening, I use a slow-speed grinder. Slow-speed grinders turn at 1725 RPM instead of the standard 3,600 RPM of most induction motors. The slower speed gives you more control and decreases the risk of overheating your tools and ruining the temper. Once steel goes above its tempering point, it won’t hold an edge any longer — it’s toast.

Strictly speaking, you don’t need a sharpening jig, but it’s a very good idea. They save time by setting the correct bevel angle from the get-go, removing most of the guesswork. They also encourage you to use the grinder more often, giving you sharper tools. If sharpening is a pain, you’re less likely to do it, and dull tools lead to poor work.

When it comes to the actual turning, be aware of rough cuts versus finishing cuts. A rough cut removes stock more quickly, but leaves a poor surface finish. Finishing cuts can use the same tools, but you move more slowly and more deliberately to ensure a smooth, clean finish.

Then comes sanding. I’ve been using Abranet mesh sandpaper, which I enjoy because it doesn’t clog while you’re dry sanding. It also does well when sanding with oil and wax, as I tend to do.

The project itself is a simple handle with a 7/16” hole drilled in one end. The seam ripper itself is attached with CA glue. That’s all. But while you’re making it, be sure to practice your basic techniques, sharpen your tools, and be safe.

Thanks for watching! If you have project suggestions for the Back to Basics series, please let me know in the comments. I’d love to know what you think.

Posted on Oct 7, 2016 in Woodturning

Snow White’s Poisoned Apple

Posted on Oct 7, 2016 in Woodturning

Halloween Poisoned Apple

Halloween is a great time for spooky stuff. To get into the spirit, I decided to create a poisoned apple on the lathe using burl and some Lichtenberg Figure accents.

The apple itself is a straightforward piece of turning. Using a bowl gouge, I turned a chunk of maple burl down into a rough apple shape. This piece of burl had some interesting knots and pits in it, but I wanted to go a little further.

To make the apple look a little spookier, I added Lichtenberg Figure accents using the machine from Conestoga Works. These figures burn the wood and look like lightning — or, in this case, like lines of rot or infection. Spooky. I finished the maple with some Transfast dye to give it a deep red color.

To make the stem, I cut a piece on the bandsaw and then used the oscillating spindle sander to smooth it out. This part is fairly straightforward and just requires patience and a good eye.

The cap or lid turned out to be the bear of this project. My first attempt exploded dramatically and gave me a bit of a scare! But all of my fingers were still intact afterwards, so there was no real harm done. My second attempt looked like Lego hair.

Third time’s the charm, as it turns out. This attempt had the dripping, oozing quality I was looking for along with a pleasant amount of asymmetry. Some Transfast flat black dye made it look more poisonous. I attached the stem by drilling a hole and using glue — easy as pie.

The apple was finished with many, many coats of spray lacquer (I lost count, but more than 15). I left the cap flat black and I enjoy the contrast it provides.

In the end, I have a piece that is spooky, but still appropriate for children. I didn’t want to do anything too horrific, so this piece from a classic fairy tale seemed like a perfect compromise.

What do you think? Let me know in the comments! Thanks for watching!

Posted on Oct 7, 2016 in Woodturning

How To Burn Wood With Electricity!

Posted on Sep 19, 2016 in Woodturning

How To Burn Wood With Electricity – Lichtenberg Figures!

WARNING: High voltage electricity is dangerous. The device in this week’s video produces 12000 volts at 35 milliamps. Misuse can cause severe pain, trouble breathing, muscular contractions forcible enough to keep you from letting go of the probe, or death. In other words, this system is no joke, and you should not use it unless you are prepared to do so safely. Always make sure that you are insulated from the ground, and strongly consider the use of high-voltage protective gloves while using the device.

You’ve seen Lichtenberg figures before, even if you didn’t know what they were called. These branching tree-like shapes are created by high voltage electricity. The most common form is lightning, which is a naturally occurring 3D Lichtenberg figure. These figures can also be produced artificially, and they have some interesting applications in woodworking.

Charles at Conestoga Works has created an all-in-one system for using high voltage electricity to burn Lichtenberg figures in wood. While this is safer than some of the home-built systems out there, it is still capable of transmitting 12,000V of electricity, so please, PLEASE read the instructions before using it

When burning Lichtenberg figures, bring your piece to its final shape, but don’t apply finish. Sand the piece up to roughly 400 grit — heavy sanding after burning will remove some of the intricate detail and ruin the effect. Once you’ve finished burning, you can clean off some of the soot created, sand to your final smoothness, and apply finish.

Electricity needs a conductor, and wood is a terrible conductor — unless it is wet. Create a solution of 2 tablespoons of baking soda in 1 quart of water (scale up as necessary) and use it to saturate the wood. When you’re ready to burn, brush on a bit more solution. If the wood is too dry, it won’t burn. If it’s too wet, it won’t burn either. There’s a bit of a learning curve involved.

With the workpiece on a wood table (and preferably an insulating rubber or plastic mat), place both probes firmly down on the workpiece and depress the foot pedal. Hold the probes in place and patterns will begin to form around each electrode and begin to move towards one another. Once they meet, you can continue to hold down the foot pedal to create a deeper groove. When finished, let go of the foot pedal, THEN remove the probes. If the probes aren’t in contact with the workpiece while the system is energized, you run the risk of creating an arc.

The patterns created have a natural, fractal quality to them. You can burn a little bit to create rosette type figures, or burn long lines across your workpiece. It’s completely up to you. Just remember to be safe and have fun!